Coffee Oil Lip Balm

I wanted to work with Soy Wax again for several reasons. First, I wanted to see if keeping to light or white colored oils and waxes would result in a similar color as our soap from yesterday. Second, I have talked with other lip balm makers, some of which have struggled with fractionation when using Soy Wax. I will agree. If it is a new product to your cupboard, it is a little tricky. I even struggled with my first batch of lip balm using it. So I wanted to give others who might have struggle with Soy Wax a trick that I have developed, without needing a thermometer.

I also used Palm Kernel Oil in the recipe. I like Palm Kernel Oil because it is white and it also fills my need for a brittle oil in the lip balm formulation. An added bonus is how economical it is to add to a formulation. You don’t need to break the bank on your soaps, lotions and other toiletries. You can have amazing products without having to pay crazy prices. 😉

Hydrogenated Soy is also a nice oil to add to a lip balm formulation. It is smooth, creamy and long lasting without feeling too heavy or sticky. I think Hydrogenated Soy adds a very nice and luxurious feel to a lip balm. Try some in your next lip balms. I think you will be surprised and in love!

I used High Melt Point Shea Butter in this formulation. I prefer High Melt Point Shea Butter over the regular Shea Butter for lip balms because it is smooth and creamy but doesn’t cause a problem if it has been in a pocket. I believe all lip balms should be able to pass the pocket test. A lip balm should be able to sit in someones pocket without melting and becoming so soft the user is unable to apply it to their lips.

Next I used Castor Oil. As the resident Queen of Lip Balms at MMS, Castor Oil is my favorite. I am called the Queen of Lip Balms because I have so many lip balms. Right now, I have no less than five different lip balms, two lip glosses and one lip stain in my purse at the moment. Castor Oil gives lip products a smooth creaminess and long lasting power. Castor Oil is a common ingredient in lipsticks as well. It is what gives lipsticks their smooth glide, which is a signature for lipsticks everywhere.

Lastly, I used Sugar Baby. Sugar Baby is a sweetener. I wanted to soften the harsh notes of the Coffee Oil. If you are a black coffee drinker, feel free to omit the Sugar Baby. However, I feel the Sugar Baby not only sweetens the lip balm but gives the Coffee Oil a smoother, rounder and more full bodied flavor. Would you use Sugar Baby in your lip balm?

Recipe:

Weigh everything except Sugar Baby Flavor Oil in a microwave safe container. Heat everything gently until it is crystal clear. If it does not get hot enough to completely melt the Soy Wax, it could fractionate. If unsure, try the plate test before putting into containers. Add the Sugar Baby Flavor Oil. Stir well. Pour into containers and allow to cool. Label and enjoy!

The Plate Test: The plate test allows you to try your lip balm to see if it has the perfect flavor, color and texture prior to filling your containers. I consider this test invaluable because it prevents failed batches, even those that have failed due to fractionation. You can catch it prior to filling your containers, preventing the entire project from needing to be scrapped. Whew! Isn’t that wonderful?

To use the plate test method, have a porcelain, glass or ceramic plate ready. I use one that is at room temperature. This gives you the most accurate texture than using a plate that has been in the freezer. Take a few drops of your lip balm solution and drizzle them onto your plate. Allow them to set up. This should take no more than about 15 to 30 seconds. Rub your finger on the cooled lip balm. You can then rub it on your lips.

Is the taste right? How about the texture? If it is just right, you can fill your containers. If not, check your notes. Did it get hot enough? What is your formulation? Remember, if you are struggling with fractionation, we are only an email or phone call away. We can help!