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Lemon Créme Shea Butter Revision #1

Last week I made an attempt to recreate a product I purchased and really enjoyed. It was a thick, rich lemon-scented shea butter cream.

Piping finished cream into jars.

The initial attempt turned out to be too waxy, so I went back to the drawing board to revise.

For the first revision, I eliminated the 2% Emulsifying Wax and increased the water from 61.5% to 63.5%. I also dropped the Stearic Acid from 3% to 1%, again adding the 2% dropped to the water.

See the revised formula below.

I’m pondering dropping the percentage of Conditioning Emulsifier as well, but I’m going to leave it alone for this revision; I don’t want to change too many things at once.

What You’ll Need


Distilled Water
Handcrafted Shea Butter
Conditioning Emulsifier
Stearic Acid
Cocoa Butter
Jojoba Oil
Liquid Germall Plus
Natural Vitamin E
Lemon Sugar Type Fragrance Oil
Lemon Yellow Dye (premixed)


Microwave-safe container or double boiler
Flexible scraper
Stick blender
Transfer Pipettes

Revised Formula


65.5% Water
20% Handcrafted Shea Butter
5% Conditioning Emulsifier
1% Stearic Acid
3% Cocoa Butter
2% Glycerin
1% Jojoba Oil
0.5% Beeswax
2% Dimethicone
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus
0.25% Vitamin E Natural
0.25% Lemon Sugar Fragrance
QS Lemon Yellow dye

100-gram Test Batch

65.5 grams Water
20 grams Handcrafted Shea Butter
5 grams Conditioning Emulsifier
1 gram Stearic Acid
3 grams Cocoa Butter
2 grams Glycerin
1 gram Jojoba Oil
0.5 gram Beeswax
2 grams Dimethicone
0.5 gram Liquid Germall Plus
0.3 gram Vitamin E Natural
0.2 gram Lemon Sugar Fragrance
QS Lemon Yellow dye


Weigh first 9 ingredients into a microwave-safe container or double boiler. Heat gently, stirring often, until the mixture is completely liquified.

Once the mixture has cooled below 120 degrees, add the preservative, Natural Vitamin E, and fragrance. Stir well to thoroughly incorporate.

At this point, if you want to add color, start with one drop of the Lemon Yellow Dye (premixed in a dropper bottle) and continue adding a drop at a time and mixing well until you reach the desired color.

Ingredients before melting.

Stirring in additives.


This version is an improvement, but we’re not quite there yet.

The texture of the cream changed to a lighter feel, which is not a problem. It’s less waxy this time around.

Still a problem is that it’s very greasy; I rubbed a small amount into my hands, and 10 minutes later, my hands still feel oily.

Join me tomorrow as I revise again and see if the third time is the charm.

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