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Introduction to Soap Making - Day 5

Today we are going to make a soap I have been looking forward to all week! The luxury oil I will be using today is Emu Oil. Now some of you may be wondering why on earth someone would want to put oil from a bird in soap!

Emu Oil adds incredible emollient properties to soap. If you are wondering what emollient means, let me explain this phrase to you. The word emollient comes from Latin meaning to soften or relax. Soaps high in emollient oils are more conditioning. They make your skin feel soft and smooth.

I used both Coconut Oil and Palm Kernel Oil for some super lather in this soap. Many people associate many bubbles with being clean and because this soap will feel so different due to the Emu Oil, I wanted to make sure people still think they are getting clean.

I also switch my oils around a little for today’s soap. If my soap has 6 oz of Palm Kernel Oil and 5 oz of Coconut Oil, my bar is going to be brittle and have razor sharp edges. Changing thing around means that the edges will be softer and rounder.

Ingredients
Palm Kernel Oil
Coconut Oil
Olive Oil
Emu Oil
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Water
Equipment
Scale
Microwave Safe Container
Spoons
Pipettes
Thermometer
Immersion Blender

Recipe:

Recipe in Grams
170 grams Olive Oil
142 grams Palm Kernel Oil
113 grams Coconut Oil
29 grams Emu Oil
70 grams Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
177 mL Water
Recipe in Ounces
6 oz Olive Oil
5 oz Palm Kernel Oil
4 oz Coconut Oil
1 oz Emu Oil
2.46 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
6 fl oz Water
Recipe in Percentages
37.5% Olive Oil
31.25% Palm Kernel Oil
25% Coconut
6.25% Emu Oil
Q.S. Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
Q.S. Water

Weigh the oils into a microwave safe container. Place into the microwave and heat. While the oils are heating, weigh the lye. Slowly add the lye to your container of water. DO NOT add water to your container of lye. The two chemicals reacting can cause a dangerous volcano. It is best to create good safety habits before you make a batch of soap that is 20 lbs in size.

For most soaps, you will want to mix your oils and lye solution when both are somewhere between 110°F to 130°F. In the winter when your soaping area is cooler, you will want to soap at higher temperatures. In the summer when your soaping area is warmer, you will want to soap at cooler temperatures. For this particular batch the temperature of my lye solution were 116°F and my oils were 124°F.

When your lye solution and oils are within the ideal temperature range, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Using either an immersion or a soap spoon, mix until you reach trace. Trace is when the raw soap has been mixed enough that oil will no longer rise to the surface when mixing is stopped. If you aren’t sure if you have achieve trace then stop mixing, go get a glass, fill it with water, do not drink it. Come back to your soap. Is oil floating on the surface?

Once trace is reached, you can pour the soap into a mold. Allow the soap to sit undisturbed for 12-24 hours. After the soap has been allowed to sit for up to 24 hours, you can unmold the soap and cut it. Arrange the cut bars of soap in an area where there is good air flow but they will not be in the way. I like to put them on a sheet of cardboard. You are now ready for the curing process. The curing process is just allow the soap to dry out, giving you a nice hard bar. You can use your soap immediately after cutting but it will not last as long as a fully cured bar.

A great way to determine if your bar has cured all the way is to use our Cure Cards! Did you know you can get them free in qualifying orders? How cool!
Taylor

Finished Soap

Finished Soap

Removing Soap from Mold

Removing Soap from Mold

Weighed Oils

Weighed Oils

Melted Oils

Melted Oils

Making Lye Solution

Making Lye Solution

Mixing Soap

Mixing Soap

Mixed Soap

Mixed Soap

Soap in Mold

Soap in Mold

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